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Review by mlt : The CarveWright advanced woodworking machine

The CarveWright machine has enabled me to accomplish amazing results with wood, and it is downright FUN to use! I am the proud owner of two machines now. I bought my first machine in January 2007 and soon realized I needed another (in August 2007) to keep up with my "project to-do" list! The machine is well designed and easy to operate. The CarveWright company provides a User Forum that is an extremely good resource for finding answers to questions about the machine and learning how to get the most out of it, from experienced and informed users. I especially recommend that anyone who is a new owner of a CarveWright machine should join the forum (it's free). OVERVIEW The machine is not complicated at all and the included Designer software (the software that you use to layout your carving projects) is no problem to learn either, although it is helpful if you have some previous experience with other graphics programs. THE MACHINE There are only three main things required to be successful... 1) You must possess basic computer skills, or have a loyal friend who can teach you the basics (you need just a bit more computer-savvy than just being able to send email!) 2) You must be able to follow directions 3) Read the manual PROBLEMS? - probably not! Having frequented the CarveWright User Forum for nearly a year, I read time and time again that the vast majority of folks who think they are having a problem with their machine are not following the recommended procedures for it's proper use. For example, a very simple thing like making sure the project board is at least 7" longer than the "virtual" board in the Designer software is often missed by new users and they cause themselves unneccessary grief. Not knowing any better, they think the machine has a problem, when in reality, it was plain old "pilot error" on their part. I recommend reading the brief manual (twice), and have it by your side when doing your first few projects so you don't neglect a step when setting up the machine for a carving session. Again, I want to emphasize that the machine is NOT HARD to operate. Just follow the directions outlined in the manual and you'll be a happy carver! MACHINE UPKEEP Couple things that I routinely do to keep my machines running in tip-top condition.. 1) Clean out the machine of sawdust build-up after each project carve - a clean machine is a happy machine. 2) Periodically inspect the machine for anything unusual such as loose screws, wear and tear on the sanding belts, sawdust buildup on parts that are lubricated with grease or oil. (By the way, I have never found any loose screws nor had to replace my sanding belts, but I check nevertheless!) THE DESIGNER SOFTWARE This is an amazing piece of work. It allows you to drag-and-drop patterns onto the "virtual board", arrange, resize, position, mirror, create textured surfaces, concave or convex surfaces, and so on. While laying out a design, you can zoom-in, zoom-out, and rotate the 'board' in virtual "3D space" to view your project design at any angle. Very handy and the software gives an excellent representation of what the project will look like BEFORE you commit to carving on real wood! Basic sign and decorative plaque making is a breeze. The Text Tool allows you to use any font installed on your PC or Mac computer. You can apply an arc to the text, angle it, change the spacing and resize it as desired. As you get more familiar with the software and its features, you'll find you can't resist doing more advanced projects and 'playing' with the software to create complex-looking projects that will have folks wondering "how'd you do that?" The software already comes with a nice supply of "stock" patterns that can be used for laying out your projects. Additional patterns are available from a variety of sources on the web (including free ones on the CarveWright Forum Pattern Sharing section) and can be downloaded to your computer for adding new patterns to your Pattern Library. (NOTE: Pattern Files for download are often "zipped" and have to be "unzipped" before they can be imported into the Pattern Library - remember what I said before... you need to know normal, basic computer skills - if you do, then you already know about zipping and unzipping files!). IN A NUTSHELL I absolutely love the machine and its capabilities. I posted some photos of several projects I've done with the machine so you can see how much fun I've been having! You will too!

Review by Lawrence D. Richards "ldr_klr" : Excellent CNC for the $$,steep learning curve,great support,US company-awesome!

Carvewright / Compucarve review This is a lengthy owner review of the Carvewright / Compucarve I did for a forum. I have updated it when appropriate (updates in () ) The Compucarve is the Sears sold/badged version of the Carvewright which is sold by LHR based in Pasadena TX. Both tools are exactly the same except for the name badge. From now on I will refer to the tool as the CW/CC or just CW. L et me first relieve any suspicions. I am not in any way affiliated with LHR which sells the CW or Sears, which sells the CC. I purchased the machine myself and received no discounts nor incentives based on doing this review. I. Research... I'm probably as much a tool collector as I am a woodworker. If there is a tool that will make a job more complicated, I'm liable to buy it--especially if it plugs in and can be classified as a "gadget". Examples are my festool ts55, incra router table and laser guided digital carpenter's pencil. (OK, I made the last one up) As SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) likes to put it, "I'm spoiled". This being said, I tend to do a lot of research on a tool before buying it. The CW was no exception. A google search got me results, but not many seemed unbiased (those on the Carvewright page for example could be looked at skeptically) and the reviews found on Amazon and Sears were not very positive at all. I did my best to sift through the reviews and still came away wondering about the capabilities of this machine. Some folks seem to love it, others (quite a few others in fact) couldn't seem to even get it to work, and then got extremely frustrated with the customer service (or lack thereof) by the parent company. (update, I've used the telephone service twice in the 5 months since first writing this and received EXCELLENT and prompt phone service both times. Evidently there was a service problem which has been addressed) A recent magazine review of the CW and CNC shark was entertaining and somewhat informative, but not really an in-depth review (nor was it meant to be) The bench top CNC world has very few players. I did some research and entry-level into this world pretty much consists of 1. DIY/home-made CNC machines with cobbled together pieces from E-bay and self procured software-- Positives for this setup are that it can be the cheapest. Negatives are very little or zero support and a very steep learning curve. Base machines seem to range from $300-500 for the frame plus 100 for a rotozip and 400-700 for stepper motors and controllers. After this you can spend from $70-700 on the software to run the system. Several DIY CNC'ers also sell completed or mostly completed 24x12 CNC machines for around $1200 (without software) As I have no experience with building machines and cannot program network code, I was a bit scared to dive into this realm. 2. The Rockler Shark CNC--this product sells through Amazon/Rockler for around $2600 for a 13x24 travel machine. In addition to the machine, you will need to buy a colt trim router to run the bit. (around $100) This product seems a great way to get into the cnc realm. The software used (v-carve 5.0) uses standard cnc coding/programming and would be useful if you get into more advanced/larger cnc machines in the future. This machine, though a bit more expensive than the CW/CC, has been observed by at least two reviewers to be the "more professional" of the two machines. I have never actually seen the shark in person so I cannot give a first-person account of whether this is true or not. After shipping/tax/bits/motor the final cost to me would have been around $3000 so this was the most expensive and therefore least likely to get approval from CINCHOUSE. I can only speculate from reviews and research that this is a capable machine. The next-cheapest production CNC machines are the "buddy" type machines which retail for $7000-10,000. 3. The Carvewright/Compucarve--The CW/CC sells for $1650-$1900 and comes with a motor, two bits, and proprietary software. The CW is a self contained machine and looks much like a wide lunchbox planer. It will accept a board up to 14.5 inches in width and 5 inches in height. The length is limited only by the maximum weight which can be moved by the rollers (listed as 20 lbs) The machine functions similarly to a drum sander in that the board is fed forward (and back) by sandpaper belts. The router or carving bit is moved side to side and up and down while the wood is fed through the machine. The base cost includes the machine, a carving bit, a cutting bit, and the base software (more on this later) II. My purchase After quite a bit of deliberation, I (obviously) decided to take a chance on the Carvewright. III. Machine description Upon opening the box I thoroughly read the manual, additional pages, and updated manual (from the Carvewright website) before I even pulled the tool out. To begin with, though the most "user-friendly" of the entry-level cnc machines, it quickly became apparent that it is not idiot proof, requires routine maintenance, and is in several ways, finicky. (more on this later) The outside case is plastic and metal and covers a frame and truck containing the bit chuck and tracks which allow/control up/down and side to side (14.5 inches) travel. Behind the truck is the motor and computer servos/controller. From the motor a flex shaft travels behind the machine and over the top and connects into the chuck which holds the router bit. To put this in better perspective, it is similar to a foredom/dremel with a hand held pen type attachment being the part which travels over the project. The motor spins (according to the website) at 22,000 rpm. The project forward/backward motion is provided by motorized sandpaper belts (consumable items which eventually tear in most users' machines and can be replaced for $19 or with rubberized improved belts for around $80) below and rubber rollers above sandwiching the material, much like a performax-type drum sander. The forward/backward motion is tracked by a notched brass roller which the board travels across, and the bottom sandpaper belts have a gap between them which allows for through (pierced) cuts. This gap also allows much of the created shavings/dust to fall beneath the machine and has been taken advantage of by some as a port for a down-draft type dust collection system. (update, I use a downdraft-type dust collecton system and it works quite well as long as the board is narrow enough to allow sawdust to fall through. I also use a festool vacum (non static hose) The motor has a fan-assisted impellor which propels air into a muffler/dust catcher. As I discovered through research, this is not intended to be used with a vacuum/dust collector as a primary dust collection port--it is a muffler and using it as a dust collection port is not recommended as it would draw dust across the motor/electronics. No factory dust collector port exists, though some have (as I did with both above and downdraft table) altered the machine's clear cover to have a dust collector port above the routing bit. You can view the carving through a clear safety shield which runs the width of the machine. (of course not recommended by the company for liablility reasons but it works) Raising this shield will pause the carving and allows access to the bit and insides of the machine. (for project viewing and/or blowing/vacuuming dust) The upper rollers and truck ride on four rails which are raised/lowered with a crank much like a lunchbox-type planer. There is a small screen (monochrome) and buttons on one side for basic programs. More complicated programs enter via a port on the side into which you insert a proprietary memory card. The fit/finish is very good and overall quality appears similar to that of a higher-end (dewalt) consumer-level planer rather than a commercial-type machine. To be honest, if I had to describe it crudely (but amusingly) I would say it appears as if a computer printer and a planer decided to mate. - the software Some people have claimed that the CW / CC is a $500 machine which includes $1100 worth of software--I don't know about all that, but I'll tell you this... the software is pretty darned awesome--especially with the purchased add-ons. For all of the shortcomings of the actual machine (more to come in the next addition), the software is a true beauty. You can try it for yourself for free for 30 days by downloading it on to your computer from the carvewright website The software allows you to import- shapes--3D carving images... these can be created, scanned by the scanning probe (more on that later) or purchased from several pattern retailers. An example is the following 2D images--you can many picture types directly into the software... the software assigns each color of the picture a depth (up to 256 colors) and creates a pattern. This is EXTREMELY easy to do, however you have limited control over the picture once it has been imported without the editing software (included with the optional probe or can be purchased on its own--an excellent addition!) Pictures also work well for lithophanes (carvings in corian backlit...) Simple pictures/outlines/line files import very easily Fonts--Here is another place the software really shines. The software recognizes all OPEN/True type fonts you have on your computer--even those you import yourself... and there are THOUSANDS of them out there for free. With the base software you only get raster-type cutting (an example of raster cutting video is on youtube if you search for "raster carvewright" If however, you purchase the optional "centerline text" software add-on from Carvewright, the machine will carve fonts with vector-type carving. This is much faster and creates a cleaner cut. I immediately purchased this add-on at a cost of $100. In addition to vector type carving, the centerline text function allows you to use "v" type router bits for your sign carving versus spiral carving bits. An example of vector font cutting is on youtube (search vector carvewright) "double sided" 2D images--it is possible to "fool" the programming (which only cuts on flat surfaces) into cutting one half of a 3d image. You can then cut the other half and glue them together creating a 3D image. True 3D images--there is a new software add-on available through which you can import STL's (three dimensional models) and the software cuts them into "slices" (think of a loaf of bread being cut) which your machine cuts out. You then reattach the slices with glue One more thing to note--the base software does not come with the ability to control actual cutting patterns through an imported picture... to do this you have to have the pattern editor software add-on. This add on is included with the scanning probe or can be purchase separately. The probe allows you to place an object into the machine. The machine will then create a 3d image of the item and save it to be manipulated via the pattern editor software. This appears to be very useful to people that need to copy molding/etc. for restoration work or to recreate antiques. You can put either a piece of the molding or a cast of the molding into the machine and it will create an exact replica (or mirror image, or whatever you decide) The probe and software sells for around $220 on amazon. I do not see buying this as of right now, but if I needed to re-create something, this would be the ideal way. (update- I bought the probe from amazon and love both it and the pattern editor software-- they really are excellent additions) The software itself is easy to manipulate. There are also MANY tutorials and help aids available to assist if you get stuck on a process. problems/limitations- Do you drive a Honda because it will run for a million miles with only an oil change? Is your future Carvewright / Compucarve going to be depended on for your livelihood? Do you hate looking at breakdown charts trying to match up that little piece you just found laying on the floor to see if it is "important"? If the answer to any of the above is "yes" then I would like to recommend you look elsewhere for your carving. If you are the kind of woodworker that makes his own jigs and sleds. If you drive a 1979 MG or Volkswagon Beetle and enjoy the down time and routine maintenance as "a challenge"... If you really want to get into computerized carving or signmaking and don't mind taking a bit of a chance or being delayed because you are awaiting parts.... And you want to do it all for a fraction of the price of the nearest competitor.... This machine may be for you! (update, 5 months of constant use on dozens of projects and ZERO non-operator errors..l there are things that can go wrong, but simple fixes using masking tape to keep a grip on the boards or ensuring the wood is square, straight, and 7 inches longer than your projects (to keep the wood under both rollers at all times) will alleviate MANY MANY of the issues people have had. - touch wood!) LIMITATIONS/Negatives The CW/CC will allow for projects up to 14.5 inches wide. (updates, you can create projects wider than this but will need to carve them in pieces and glue them together) It will carve items up to 5 inches high but it will only carve as deep as the cutters on the router bit (in the case of the carving bits, this is .8 inches... for other bits it can be up to 1 inch) You can carve long projects as the wood moves through the machine, but the weight of the material is limited to 20 lbs. You can only carve wood, or some plastics (like corian) and foams (sign foam for example)--in other words, no metals of any kind can be put in this machine. It has apparently been attempted with unfortunate results. You MUST use square/straight/parallel wood. The machine will not carve items that are not prepped properly. Cupped, twisted, tapered, etc. boards appear to be the cause of many folks' problems. If you don't own a planer, jointer, and table saw I would not recommend buying this product. You can work around some of these limitations by using sleds, but this is a more advanced procedure and I wouldn't try it until I COMPLETELY understood this machine and could predict where and when the bit would travel-- in any case it's easier to just have square stock to begin with. (note- I've found that if I carve the project on the same day that I prep it any warping will occur AFTER carving, alleviating any possibilities of a warped board causing a broken bit) NOISE!!!!! This sucker is LOUD... louder than my lunchbox planer... louder than my router... It is the only machine I use in my shop where I use double ear protection (ear plugs plus noise reduction muffs) I will update you when I put on my inbound aftermarket chuck as this apparently cuts down on some of the noise... but no matter what, you won't be using this late at night if you like your neighbors. (update, the rock chuck -info below- reduced the noise of my machine greatly and reduced "whine" as well... it is MUCH quieter now) Dust collection- It doesn't exist in the stock machine... some have made downdraft collectors to collect the airborne dust/dust that falls through the belts, but some of those people have had problems with static charges from ungrounded systems causing surges that damaged their machines... In the future, I hope to create an enclosure that will act as a muffler and a dust collection system while still allowing air circulation One more limitation is time. It can take a considerable amount of time to carve more intricate cavings. It is not uncommon to hear of 3-5 hour carves and there is a certain amount of bragging rights in doing a 10-hour carve. The high side is that the machine runs itself so the only thing you have to do is check on it every 15 minutes or so. You can also pause the work by lifting the cover or pressing the stop button. You can then leave the machine plugged in but not operating. This frees you to vacuum or blow the dust away, let things cool down, or pause your work overnight. This being said, the centerline test function speeds up the carves by a HUGE margin and many of my projects have been less than 20 min carves. RELIABILITY Well, I've had fun experimenting with different settings, sizes of fonts for lettering, and designed possible future projects. I have not encountered any "problems" so far with my machine, but I am holding my breath a bit. Online research of the CW/CC has revealed that having problems with your machine is not a matter of IF, it is a matter of WHEN. I knew this going into this purchase so I cannot complain. (update-once again- 5+ months of often use with (touch wood) NO Problems... as I state below, I can't help but feel the rock chuck alleviates many of the problems associated with this machine...I also resarched and took baby steps when starting out.... I did not want to permanently damage my machine by doing something it was not intended to do... and so far I've been successful) Reliability is a problem for many CW owners. Read reviews on Sears or Amazon's reviews and you will quickly question the sanity of buying this machine... Research a bit further however, and you will find many, many, happy customers. I believe the biggest causes of many folks' reliability problems are due to 1. Improper maintenance 2. Improper cutting procedures which lead to broken bits/jarred mechanics, and future problems. 3. "questionable" customer relations from the manufacturer (again, this seems to have been fixed... the parent company is very concerned and has addressed customer relations and it seems to have worked) The two most common problems encountered are overheating of the flex shaft and Quick Chuck failure. Overheating of the flex cable (the cable which runs from the motor to the bit) is the most commonly encountered problem. Overheating will damage the outer and inner sheath of the flex shaft which will then require replacement. Replacement is (from what I've read online and in the warranty) NOT COVERED under the warranty as the cables are considered a consumable part. Overheating is avoided by proper lubrication with a very specific aftermarket lubricant (liquid wrench gunk chain lube with moly- cost around $5). In addition, regular (every 15-30 minutes seems to be enough) monitoring of the temperature of the flex shaft is required. I do this with an infrared thermometer (I bought one for $29 from harbor freight) or you can also just feel the flex shaft for overheating (per LHR the home company, "too hot to hold " equals too hot... I personally like the consistency of a thermometer. Almost half of the complaints I found in poor reviews stemmed from flex shaft melting/ problems associated with being required to pay for the flex shaft (I believe it is $79) (update- I've lubed the flexshaft twice since buying the machine and this has completely alleviated any overheating problems. I soaked the shaft in the lube for about 60 mins and then let it air dry for 12 hrs and while there was no immediate massive reduction in temperature (spots were around 130 degrees), after 2-3 hours of carving projects (not at the same time) my flexshaft cooled down to almost room temperature. The difference is amazing if not immediate. Quick Change chuck failures are the second most common problem/complaint noted. The Quick Chuck (QC) is a holder (chuck) that fixes the bit adapter to the flex cable. It allows for quick changing of different bits during different stages of projects and makes for reliable bit depths. Unfortunately the QC seems to be the CW's second Achilles heel. The QC is apparently the source of quite a bit of the vibration and noise associated with the machine. It requires quite a bit of maintenance (cleaning, lubrication, and observation for problems) and when it does go bad, it can cause damage as it releases or allows for vibration of the bits (spinning at 20,000 rpm) Oh yeah, and did I mention that the QC is also considered a "consumable item" and is not covered by the warranty? I have found two solutions for preventing QC problems 1. Be extremely fastidious about QC maintenance. Follow the 12 page QC maintenance schedule as required (yes is exists!) As the QC wears, bb-shaped indents will appear in the adapters and/or cut quality will suffer. You then replace the QC and adapters. 2. Purchase one of the aftermarket chucks created for the CW/CC. The most popular one is "The Rock" which is lighter, better balanced, and apparently much more reliably engineered than the stock QC. It allows for use of standard router bits or CW as well. This chuck also will apparently cut down on a noticeable amount of noise and vibration produced by the machine. Use of aftermarket chucks is of course discouraged by the manufacturer, but it appears to be the most reliable way to side-skirt QC problems and other future problems caused by machine vibration. I ordered mine last week and will do a separate review on the rock-chuck once I get it up and running (review below) (update-- I LOVE My rock chuck... LHR (the carvewright company) is apparently developing their own similar chuck to the rock, but in the meantime I can't stress enough what a difference the rock chuck makes in this machine) Other less common problems include sensor issues, loose connections, and sandpaper belt tracking problems (another consumable item). Once something does go wrong it is apparently quite difficult (at times) to get in contact with the company for service. There are too many nightmare stories out there about week-long attempts to get through to ignore. This has been addressed by the company and my personal experiences (2 calls for technical assistance) were met with prompt and professional service) ...this being said, when you do get through to the company, the feedback is quite good... as long as you are willing to work on your machine yourself they will evidently send you repair/replacement parts (they hold a deposit while you return your part) and will help you over the phone while you do the repair. The other option is to send the complete machine in for repair. This is done at your expense (even under warranty) which costs around $100 (if you buy the machine make sure you keep the original box and padding!!!). In addition the community at the company sponsored online forum has seen just about everything and is quite helpful at troubleshooting/assisting/advising. If you purchase the Compucarve through sears you can take it back to the store, but they will have to send it off for it to be repaired. Many sears customers apparently used to just go straight through the manufacturer for service. Like I said at the beginning of this article, it is seemingly not "if" there will be a problem, but "when". Some customers seem to have problems from the get-go, while others run their machines trouble-free for scores of hours. Proper maintenance and knowledge of the right way to use the machine seems to be a key to many successes. Customers that rely on the CW / CC for their livelihood (not recommended as this machine is for "non commercial use only") reportedly keep spare parts or a second machine at hand to minimize down-time. MAINTENANCE There are many resources to assist with upkeep of the CW/CC. Basically, you have to keep your machine 1. Clean 2. Lubricated 3. Comfortable (40-100 F) 4. Dry 5. Clean 6. Clean 7. Did I mention clean? Evidently a clean computer is a happy computer I clean my machine with a combination of low-pressure (40psi) compressed air and vacuum (shop vac) I use my festool shop vac as it does not cause a static charge and will not damage my machine. If I were to use my normal shop vac I would just ensure that the machine was turned off first... I won't rehash the complete lubrication maintenance schedule here, instead I'll just fill you in on the recommended lubricants for this machine 1. Gunk chain lube with moly 2. Gunk Dry lube with CERFLON 3. silicone spray 4. white lithium grease 5. bicycle chain wax 6. 3 in 1 oil 7. earwax Ok, so I made the last one up just to see if you are paying attention, but I'll bet your old beetle didn't require this many lubricants! In addition you should apparently regularly check all connections and tighten screws etc. Online resources- There are quite a few available... googling won't find them all for you surprisingly 1. Carvewright forum- this is the company sponsored forum. I have found the folks here to be helpful, but some folks are quite defensive of the company line. There is a bit of control over the content and there are reports of deleted posts etc. if too much "complaining" etc occurs or things stray too far from the company line. Also of note...it doesn't take much browsing to find a butthead or two and some here have very little patience with those that aren't as zealous or knowledgable--but these people are few and far between and people here are for the most part great. This resource is by far the most vast as far as the amount of information and help rendered and there is quite an extensive library of free files available here. Overall this forum is awesome and contains many friendly and helpful people--just don't be surprised if you see otherwise from time to time... 2. Carvespot- This forum was evidently created by some folks that wanted more freedom to express things due to "issues" with the above... good folks here with a bit of a wild west attitude. You'll find most if not all of the posters here on the above forum as well. There are not nearly as many postings on this forum, but is is useful 3. Carvebuddy/other user run sites for info/sales of patterns. There are tons of these out there... Carvewright / Compucarve review part IV, The Rock Chuck As I mentioned in a previous chapter, there is an aftermarket chuck available for the Carvewright / Compucarve named "the rock chuck". It was created by a Carvewright user who happens to work at a metal fabrication / parts forming company (or something like that) Anyway, the seller's name is Ron, and he can be contacted through the carvewright forum. what the rock chuck does is replaces the chuck that holds the bit for your machine... so you go from a propriatory system that is fussy/unreliable/and consumable to a more-familliar router bit type chuck (though much better engineered/manufactured than most non-industrial chucks) The switch to the rock chuck has some immediate and obvious advantages 1. You can use standard router bits, not just those sold by Carvewright...though the bits sold by CW are of a high quality, they are expensive... and just as high of a quality (or higher) of bits are cheaper elsewhere. The newest rock chuck allows you to use 1/2 ,

Review by B. Lanning : An excelent value, but know what you're getting.

I've had the sears craftsman version of the carvewright machine (compucarve) for almost a year now. It's identical to the carvewright except for come cosmetic differences. Early versions of both machines had numerous manufacturing problems. The sensor that detects whether the door is open would fail in the open position making the machine stop working. There was also a problem with the board sensor failing from time to time. The machine detects distance from the board by shining an IR light, then reading the intensity of the light bouncing back. When the sensor works, it works great. Some people reported the sensor filling up with sawdust. While others just failed for no reason. I had both of these problems. Other people reported a problem with the flex shaft overheating. Mine didn't have this problem. When mine failed, I sent it back to them for a series of standard fixes designed to correct my problems and prevent the other common ones. The machine has worked fine ever since. I believe if you were to buy one of these today, you'd get a better version with all the bugs worked out. Pros: The software is great. You can download a demo version from their website before buying. I'm an IT consultant so I understand completely what goes into good software. And this is top-tier work. There's definitely a learning curve for the software, so be prepared to spend some time with it. This is true of any powerful software system though, so no bad marks there. There's a lot of good tutorials out there as well. It's not just for making relief carvings. You can create a tool path that enables it to cut out complicated shapes. It won't replace a scroll saw for fretwork, but it can come close. It's great for cutting out jig parts or knobs from wood. It can cut plastic. And that includes relief carvings. The quick-release collet for the router bits is great. You most likely will need the included tool to get them out though. You can get this sensor attachment that goes in place of the router bit. It moves back and forth scanning a 3D image into the software. This allows you to copy existing carvings. Even though they're a small company, their customer service was good. All their customer service agents were in texas, not india. And they were all very knowledgeable about the machine. There aren't many people working there. This means you can easily get on a first name basis with the customer service people. But sometimes they're not available. So you may lose a day or two getting the right people on the phone. You can buy it at amazon now. (yea!) I had to buy mine from sears. (yuk) Cons: It's a bit slow. But considering what it does, I can't complain much. There's three quality settings. And on the highest setting it can take 45 minutes or more to carve a 8"x10" face. They claim they've run them for 6 hours straight on complicated carvings with no trouble at all. I believe it. Think of this machine as something you start, then leave while you do other things. It's loud. But it's a router. So again, I shouldn't complain. Because of temperature limitations, I can't really keep it in my garage where the rest of the shop is. It gets too cold and I'm worried about how well it will operate in that environment. I keep mine in the basement next to a shop vac. Dust collection isn't so great. But there's not a huge amount of dust. But you do have to vacuum it out after every run, which is not hard since the machine really opens up. It only carves up to 1" deep. I wish it were more. But it's not a huge problem. It can be really difficult to import a picture of someone's face into the software and make it look right on the carving. This is probably a problem with the user though. :-) Their sales literature claims that you can rip, crosscut, and miter with it. But make no mistake, you won't be replacing your table and miter saw with this machine. It's really only good for occasionally cutting off a board after carving. I wish the software included a more extensive carving library. Some are included with the software. But you'll quickly find yourself looking for other things to carve. It's a bit plasticy. And lastly, it's expensive. For what you pay for this machine, you can get some other really nice machines for the general shop, all made of steel and cast iron, and all of which will be around for my grand kids. Sometimes I get the feeling that this will be obsolete soon just like computers. But we spend this much or more on computers these days so I guess it's fair. It really does do a lot for the price. And it's a lot cheaper than the alternatives.